simon_hooley Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Hello all. Is there anyone on here in the U.K. that could send me some Inox MX3, I'm desperate to try it. Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chadow Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 Hello Simon,I do have a spare bottle of Inox, but it wasn't cheap to get it here! It really does do the trick. Not sure of how to contact you, but I do have a business email that I can provide, if permitted.....RegardsChas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon_hooley Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 Hello Chas. thanks for the reply. Dear administrator can you please tell us the best way to proceed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon_hooley Posted November 2, 2016 Author Share Posted November 2, 2016 Dear chas I have a rarely used email address that you can use. simon.hooley52@gmail.com. look forward to hearing from you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Hawkins Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 It's a wonder no one seems to import this stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregWoods Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 I've seen a lot of people recommending INOX products for track cleaning and maintenance, but surely a CONDUCTIVE product would be better than a non-conductive one such as INOX? I just saw some conductive carbon grease for sale and thought it might be a better alternative. Just wondering! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blagard Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 I think the Inox may be just good for cleaning, but not left on the rails if you see what I mean. Certainly no-one would coat and leave in place any non-conductive compound on a conductor. Never used it so cannot say if it is any good.Grease will just attract all manner of rubbish, dust, hairs, the odd bit of braid. You want the rails to be clean and dry. Using inox would be good idea to spray on prior to putting track away for storage, likewise so would grease if it didn't affect the plastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chadow Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 Thanks Admin, That was what I was hoping for! Haven't checked in for a while, but have emailed to send the spare bottle.Greg, I don't understand how it works either, but rest assured, it does! Like magic!! At £20.00 per bottle, I was dubious and didn't really want to risk my hard-earned on it, Took a couple of months for me to make up my mind before ordering and now wish I had a lot earlier. Even my rattly ( Scalextric chipped) Cartrix cars run well.Don't even think of using grease! It will clog everything and you will find all sorts of odd things sticking to it. Mind you, it might help me find out what happened to my Minis headlights after last weeks thrashing my poor track and cars took at the hands of some 'friends'.Chas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vimal_indrasoma Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 Is it similar to WD40? I am looking at re-conditioning a very old Classic layout and wondering how to go about it ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy P. Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 No WD-40 is petroleum based and can harm plastic if left on too long... it can also remove paint on track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vimal_indrasoma Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 Whoops! Thanks for the heads-up, just in time too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blagard Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 See,https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/support/track-maintenance and scroll down a bit to see track cleaning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sensitryk Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 Hey Simon. You can find it at www.scalextric-shop.dk They ship also to UK.Jan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vimal_indrasoma Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 See,https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/support/track-maintenance and scroll down a bit to see track cleaningThanks, that was useful.Sorry for the late response, as I was tied up for the last couple of days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbo5 Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 I've bought some second hand track that has a little bit of rust (which is coming off with a rail cleaner rubber) but all have lots of dark patches which seems much harder to get off with the rubber. Anyone get any good tips? This link https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/support/track-maintenance doesnt help unless it's telling me that i'm not going to be able to get the dark stuff off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blagard-01 Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 I've bought some second hand track that has a little bit of rust (which is coming off with a rail cleaner rubber) but all have lots of dark patches which seems much harder to get off with the rubber. Anyone get any good tips? This link https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/support/track-maintenance doesnt help unless it's telling me that i'm not going to be able to get the dark stuff off!Copied from the link for maintenance --->Corrosion and heavy tarnishingUse a mild abrasive material to shine up the running surfaces of the pick-up rails, making sure that the male and female connections at the ends of the track sections are also bright and shiny. Be aware that sometimes no amount of cleaning of heavily corroded rails and connectors will return the track to a useable state and replacement of track in this condition is the only alternative. The dark patches could be where a previous owner has applied a rust killing substance in which case nothing short of grinding it off will remove it (and the steel it is in). Buying secondhand does have its risks and rail condition is important to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy P. Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 I have replaced all my classic track with sport except for the pieces that you can't get as Sport i.e. Goodwood chicane, chican curve etc. and even then I keep a look out for track in near pristine condition as I have find some of it just simply will not be as conductive as new track.What I have done successfully as added copper tape with conductive adhesive on tope of the rails, curled it into the female end and wraped it carefull around the male end of the rail so that the copper touches the other piece of track and that has worked well.The down side is you have be careful with adding the track (the copper tape is a bit fragile), you can't clean it with anything but a dry cloth, and if you didn't get all the rust the first time it may rust underneatj.Curves are hard to do. You can only "bend" the tape so much before you have to make a snip or cut a wedge. I always try to lay it down so that the edges of the cut overlap in such a way the side that is on top is in the direction of travel. Otherwise the braids catch the edge and peel it up. Some people paint the joints with the most minimal amount of super glue to keep the edges from fraying and just accept that there is a 1-2 mm dead spot.Still, if you love a Goodwood chicane this is your only choice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blagard-01 Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 In addition to the issue of cleaning old classic track, has anyone ever deepened the slot to make it the same as sport / digital ? I am not sure if it is practical so never tried myself. - currently my long chicane is stored away complete with the classic to sport adapter track sections Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy P. Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 I have used a felxible saw to attempt this. It made a big mess with little bits of plastic that got caught in the cars.I eventually came to the conclusion the best way to do this is to actually cut the track apart along the slot and them screw it/glue it to a piece of wood/plastic /another piece of track.This of course means that the connectors have to hang over the edge since the connection is made by "levering" the pieces together....It could be that a 1 mm sheet is stable enough but anything over 5 mm lifts the track up a great deal and looks a bit odd. I added it to my list "things I will tackle when I am rich and someone else takes care of everything else in my life and we are at peace...." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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